Sept 3/08 - Tales of the Wild, Wild West

Wed Sept 3rd/08

Rod fuels the bikes while I head back to the gym. There is no fitness room where we headed next so I’m taking advantage while I can. We request and are granted a late check out from the hotel so we can enjoy a couple of hours at the Western Heritage Centre and Museum. We pack all our gear and leave it and Paladin behind and double up to the museum. The curator is a retired local rancher who tells us “I’m about as old as most of the things in here”. Well maybe not quite but he is fascinating to talk to and we instantly warm to his quiet, laid back charm. The museum is like stepping back in time to the Wild Wild West. It pays tribute and homage to the people that developed the territory and the sacrifices that were made. Battles waged – battles won – battles lost. Numerous artifacts and photography from the early settlers and the Sioux Indian Tribe, a fiercely proud and independent people. It displays a wonderful sense of community and appreciation for all their fore-fathers had accomplished under very difficult circumstances.

They do a lot of sugar beet farming in this area and I was surprised to read that during the war years with most of the able bodied men away overseas, they were desperate to get some help to get the crop in. They ‘imported’ quite a number of Mexican nationals and then were delivered a large number of German POW’s who worked hard – were fairly treated and even paid for their efforts. They were shipped back to Germany by Christmas of 1945.

We leave Spearfish behind in the early afternoon. Heading south on Hwy 14A – the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Route is a motorcyclists dream. Beautifully maintained roads that are twisty, well banked and exceptionally scenic. As much as I love the comfort of Paladin… today I would LOVE to have my sport bike and a set of leathers. WOW!!! This is definitely a 10! The air is unbelievably pure and sweet. My new tire is well and properly “scrubbed in” now. The Spearfish Creek gurgles happily alongside the road with its numerous weirs, a fish hatchery and beautiful waterfall. There are also some of the most spectacular log homes I have ever seen looking out to the grandeur of “The Black Hills”.

We have the meal that I call “Lupper” – (lunch & supper) about 2:00 at the magnificent Spearfish Canyon Lodge. We had heard about it in our hotel the night before. The weather was nice enough to sit outside on the deck and enjoy the breath taking scenery. Our waitress was from Juneau, Alaska and had grown tired of the weather there. One day she just grabbed a map, pointed to Spearfish and said to her boyfriend “There, that’s where we’re moving”! They didn’t know a soul, had no relatives there, put their car on a barge from Alaska to Seattle then drove across to South Dakota. They love it there and have never looked back.

After a great lunch we set out once again – the sky was darkening and we wanted to try to stay ahead of the pending thunderstorm. We ride through Deadwood, the home of the likes of Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane and decide to make it a day trip from our next locale of Keystone. We stop in Hill City to check our map and a fellow on a 1948 Harley Panhead that was a dead ringer for Rip Van Winkle came over to see if we needed help. Setting us in the right direction he told us to go on up and have a look at the antique motorcycle rally that was taking place in town. We decided to do just that and were amazed. There were well over a hundred of them dating back to the 1920’s and 30’s and many of the riders looked like they ‘could’ have had them since new.

Riding out of Hill City I noted a couple that had dropped their Harley in a parking lot and she was trying to help him right it. Rod & I turned our bikes around to go help – it’s a pretty heavy lift. Turned out they were from Brazil and had come across the Badlands and were headed for Las Vegas. We’ll get there too eventually – perhaps we’ll meet up again.

We pull off into a large turnout area when we catch our first glimpse of Mt Rushmore. We meet another couple on a bike and strike up a conversation. Sheila tells me they are just new riders down to the Black Hills area for a couple of days off. Sydney is in the air force. They both have an open and easy countenance and we are sorry to leave them behind. Sheila showed me a picture on her digital camera that will be quite the conversation piece I’m sure. A photographer who was also at the turnout – took her camera and positioned her “just so” laid on the ground to shoot upwards and then told her to “pucker up”. The resulting photo made it look like she was kissing George Washington.

We ride into Keystone (population 311) just after 6:00 and get the bikes tucked in for the night under the canopy of the front of the hotel. Just in time – a clap of thunder, the skies open up and the wind starts to blow --- again. The sky is alight with more than the laser light show on Mt Rushmore. Lightening forks across the sky making us grateful to be parked for the night.

We unload and relax in the hot tub with an ice cold Corona and lime. Ahhhhh…

We’re planning to use Keystone as a base for the next few days to explore the many treasures of South Dakota. Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Monument, the Rushmore Caves, the Black Hills Caverns, Custer State Park, Thunderhead Underground Falls and the motorcycle Mecca of Sturgis. Rod is also anxious to see the National Museum of Woodcarving and visit the Badlands. We’ll fit in as much as we can and hopefully come back another time.

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