Aug 30/08 - Yellowstone... "Up Close & Personal"

Saturday, August 30th, 2008

Rod fuelled both bikes before a great breakfast at our cozy B & B in Gardiner, Montana. We took our departure about 9:30 when there was a chance for the air to warm up. We entered Yellowstone Park via the north entrance and soon crossed into Wyoming. There were lots of photo ops and many scenic overlooks to showcase the geological formations of the area. The temperature climbed into the low 80’s and we succumbed to the temptation of the “helmet not required” law. It is a perfect temperature and the breeze riffling through my hair feels wonderful.

I think back to an unusually named exhibit we saw just as we left Alberta called “Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump”. Farther along in Montana is a town called “Pray”. I guess I’ll just “Pray” to not get my “Head Smashed In”.

The buffalo jump was used for 5,500 years by aboriginal peoples of the plains to kill buffalo, by driving them off the 10 metre high cliff. The Blackfoot drove the buffalo from a grazing area in the Porcupine Hills about 3 kilometres west of the site to the "drive lanes," lined by hundreds of cairns, then at full gallop over a cliff, breaking their legs, rendering them immobile. The site was in use at least 6,000 years ago, and the bone deposits are 10 metres deep. After falling off the cliff, the buffalo carcasses were processed at a nearby camp. According to legend, a young Blackfoot wanted to watch the buffalo plunge off the cliff from below, but was buried underneath the falling buffalo. He was later found dead under the pile of carcasses "where he got his head smashed in".

A long line of vehicles stops to let an entire herd of elk cross the road. Bulls, cows and many new babies, marking a fertile year. They then cross the river far below us.

Making the climb towards Tower Junction we pull over as there is a young black bear yearling happily feasting on wild huckleberries about 20 feet up the bank off the road. Rod was busy taking pictures of him when he abruptly decided maybe there were better pickings on the other side of the road. I quickly backed up towards my bike as he trundled across just in front of me.

Up in the high country of Dunraven Pass the area is abundant with my wonderful mountain pines laden with their fruit of cones and untouched by the blight of the pine beetle. I inhale deeply of that beautiful aroma and hold it in as long as I can.

Coming into Fishing Bridge where we fuel we have a unique opportunity to get “up close and personal” with a massive bison standing in the ditch right beside the road. Nearby a sign reads “Do Not Approach Bison – Dangerous and Wild”. We have been warned that the bison and elk bulls are in rut. Rod advised me not to rev my engine as "Paldin's" bark may be construed as a challenge. Now I’m hoping he doesn’t decide to take a fancy to Paladin. It has taken us 4 hours to ride 60 miles to take in all the amazing sights and we can’t wait to download Rod’s photos into my laptop that night.

Following along the Yellowstone River we are cooled by a soft breeze which we welcome as the temperature continues to rise. Riding alongside the massive Yellowstone Lake which spans 136 square miles reminds me of riding Chuckanut Drive in Washington State which follows the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean.

We fuel in Cody, Wyoming and chat with a couple of Harley riders from Idaho also enroute to Thermopolis. We spent a few days in Cody a couple of years ago on our “Cowboy Tour” and enjoyed a day at the Buffalo Bill Historical Centre and Firearms Museum. The Buffalo Bill Museum examines both the personal and public lives of "Buffalo Bill" Cody1846-1917) and seeks to tell his story in the context of the history and myth of the American West. It is highly regarded as a research center focusing on the life and times of "Buffalo Bill." The Cody Firearms Museum houses the most comprehensive assemblage of American firearms in the world. Over 10,000 exhibits ranging from the blunderbuss to today’s sophisticated weaponry.

The Harley boys set out ahead of us but we soon overtook them and passed on a lazy Ess turn. They paced with us the first 30 miles, Rod & I riding comfortably side by each our bikes moving in unison as if joined by an invisible yolk. Anxious now to check into our hotel we crank up the throttle a notch leaving the Harley’s far behind and soon out of sight. As we pull in to the Best Western Thermopolis now in 95 F temperature, I grin and call out to Rod “Hey – what happened to our Spuds”?

Nestled among the foothills of the Owl Creek Mountains and resting beside the Big Horn River lies Thermopolis, Wyoming. It is renowned for its World’s Largest Mineral Hot Spring and beautiful surroundings. The Big Horn Springs are located throughout Hot Springs County. Originally part of the Wind River Indian Reservation, the Shoshone and Arapahoe Tribes sold this land to the United States so that the healing waters of the Big Horn Hot Springs would be available to all people under the condition that it be offered at no charge in perpetuity. The water bubbles out of the ground at 135 degrees F and has to be cooled before use at the mineral baths and hot tub also located at our hotel.

After unpacking the bikes we enjoy a cold beer, a long soak and fun conversations with the other guests enjoying the spa. Our plan is to stay here for a few days of R & R. Tomorrow we plan to go to the mineral springs water slide park that we enjoyed a couple of years ago and have dinner at a great Mexican restaurant. My rear tire has been showing quite a bit of wear and we are concerned about it lasting until we reach Denver where we plan to spend a few days with family and change it out there. We’ll re-evaluate in the morning.

Meanwhile Rod is about to download his photos onto the laptop when in the blink of an eye he presses a wrong button and loses EVERYTHING on his CF card. He is absolutely heartsick over the loss and we think of the hundreds of amazing shots through Yellowstone today. There is no way to re-capture those moments except for our wonderful memories which we will cherish. I shot a couple on the G2 so we’ll have to content ourselves with those - for now.