Aug 30/08 - Yellowstone... "Up Close & Personal"

Saturday, August 30th, 2008

Rod fuelled both bikes before a great breakfast at our cozy B & B in Gardiner, Montana. We took our departure about 9:30 when there was a chance for the air to warm up. We entered Yellowstone Park via the north entrance and soon crossed into Wyoming. There were lots of photo ops and many scenic overlooks to showcase the geological formations of the area. The temperature climbed into the low 80’s and we succumbed to the temptation of the “helmet not required” law. It is a perfect temperature and the breeze riffling through my hair feels wonderful.

I think back to an unusually named exhibit we saw just as we left Alberta called “Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump”. Farther along in Montana is a town called “Pray”. I guess I’ll just “Pray” to not get my “Head Smashed In”.

The buffalo jump was used for 5,500 years by aboriginal peoples of the plains to kill buffalo, by driving them off the 10 metre high cliff. The Blackfoot drove the buffalo from a grazing area in the Porcupine Hills about 3 kilometres west of the site to the "drive lanes," lined by hundreds of cairns, then at full gallop over a cliff, breaking their legs, rendering them immobile. The site was in use at least 6,000 years ago, and the bone deposits are 10 metres deep. After falling off the cliff, the buffalo carcasses were processed at a nearby camp. According to legend, a young Blackfoot wanted to watch the buffalo plunge off the cliff from below, but was buried underneath the falling buffalo. He was later found dead under the pile of carcasses "where he got his head smashed in".

A long line of vehicles stops to let an entire herd of elk cross the road. Bulls, cows and many new babies, marking a fertile year. They then cross the river far below us.

Making the climb towards Tower Junction we pull over as there is a young black bear yearling happily feasting on wild huckleberries about 20 feet up the bank off the road. Rod was busy taking pictures of him when he abruptly decided maybe there were better pickings on the other side of the road. I quickly backed up towards my bike as he trundled across just in front of me.

Up in the high country of Dunraven Pass the area is abundant with my wonderful mountain pines laden with their fruit of cones and untouched by the blight of the pine beetle. I inhale deeply of that beautiful aroma and hold it in as long as I can.

Coming into Fishing Bridge where we fuel we have a unique opportunity to get “up close and personal” with a massive bison standing in the ditch right beside the road. Nearby a sign reads “Do Not Approach Bison – Dangerous and Wild”. We have been warned that the bison and elk bulls are in rut. Rod advised me not to rev my engine as "Paldin's" bark may be construed as a challenge. Now I’m hoping he doesn’t decide to take a fancy to Paladin. It has taken us 4 hours to ride 60 miles to take in all the amazing sights and we can’t wait to download Rod’s photos into my laptop that night.

Following along the Yellowstone River we are cooled by a soft breeze which we welcome as the temperature continues to rise. Riding alongside the massive Yellowstone Lake which spans 136 square miles reminds me of riding Chuckanut Drive in Washington State which follows the shoreline of the Pacific Ocean.

We fuel in Cody, Wyoming and chat with a couple of Harley riders from Idaho also enroute to Thermopolis. We spent a few days in Cody a couple of years ago on our “Cowboy Tour” and enjoyed a day at the Buffalo Bill Historical Centre and Firearms Museum. The Buffalo Bill Museum examines both the personal and public lives of "Buffalo Bill" Cody1846-1917) and seeks to tell his story in the context of the history and myth of the American West. It is highly regarded as a research center focusing on the life and times of "Buffalo Bill." The Cody Firearms Museum houses the most comprehensive assemblage of American firearms in the world. Over 10,000 exhibits ranging from the blunderbuss to today’s sophisticated weaponry.

The Harley boys set out ahead of us but we soon overtook them and passed on a lazy Ess turn. They paced with us the first 30 miles, Rod & I riding comfortably side by each our bikes moving in unison as if joined by an invisible yolk. Anxious now to check into our hotel we crank up the throttle a notch leaving the Harley’s far behind and soon out of sight. As we pull in to the Best Western Thermopolis now in 95 F temperature, I grin and call out to Rod “Hey – what happened to our Spuds”?

Nestled among the foothills of the Owl Creek Mountains and resting beside the Big Horn River lies Thermopolis, Wyoming. It is renowned for its World’s Largest Mineral Hot Spring and beautiful surroundings. The Big Horn Springs are located throughout Hot Springs County. Originally part of the Wind River Indian Reservation, the Shoshone and Arapahoe Tribes sold this land to the United States so that the healing waters of the Big Horn Hot Springs would be available to all people under the condition that it be offered at no charge in perpetuity. The water bubbles out of the ground at 135 degrees F and has to be cooled before use at the mineral baths and hot tub also located at our hotel.

After unpacking the bikes we enjoy a cold beer, a long soak and fun conversations with the other guests enjoying the spa. Our plan is to stay here for a few days of R & R. Tomorrow we plan to go to the mineral springs water slide park that we enjoyed a couple of years ago and have dinner at a great Mexican restaurant. My rear tire has been showing quite a bit of wear and we are concerned about it lasting until we reach Denver where we plan to spend a few days with family and change it out there. We’ll re-evaluate in the morning.

Meanwhile Rod is about to download his photos onto the laptop when in the blink of an eye he presses a wrong button and loses EVERYTHING on his CF card. He is absolutely heartsick over the loss and we think of the hundreds of amazing shots through Yellowstone today. There is no way to re-capture those moments except for our wonderful memories which we will cherish. I shot a couple on the G2 so we’ll have to content ourselves with those - for now.

Aug 29/08 - What was I thinking...

Friday, August 29th, 2008

From Rod’s grocery shopping foray of the night before, we enjoyed a great breakfast of yoghurt with cut up nectarines and peaches. We fuelled both bikes and left Browning, Montana just after 8:00 a.m.

We won’t belabour the first ½ of the day. Suffice it to say – it was quite gruelling. If you can (again) get a picture of the Michelin tire man – that is how I felt. Layer upon layer to try and keep the cold at bay. It severely restricts my mobility though and I can’t help but think that like the medieval jousters I need a crane to put me atop my steed. T-shirt, long sleeved turtleneck, lined windbreaker, and my First Gear riding jacket with the winter liner IN! Once again the wind does it’s best to throttle us and we arrive in Great Falls at 11:00 where we were to have stayed the night before. We decide to lunch there and try to warm up. I have to admit I was feeling pretty much discouraged and beat up at this point. I started to think maybe I have done this too many times and for too long for this to be fun anymore. 35+ years of riding have left their imprint on both hands and knees. I always thought I’d get to be 80 and riding the equivalent of a GSXR! I have compromised by trading my sport bike for more of a cruiser type. I am re-thinking the trip and dreaming of a warm sunny beach in Puerto Vallarta. Rod, my rock, encourages me and tells me he thinks it will get better from here.

Wonder of wonders… after lunch the sun has come out bringing with it a vague memory of warmth. We travel south on 89 fuelling in Neihart and again in Livingston. By 3:00 we are in full sunshine and Rod is riding in shirt sleeves and I’m in a light jacket. My flagging spirits are buoyed by the sun and great tunes on my iPod. The sun hides for a few minutes above a huge lens cloud making the edges appear illuminated.

We ride through the pass between the Absaroka Mountain range and the Rockies. Mercifully the wind has abated – somewhat. A lone eagle is playing in the air currents – drifting, soaring, diving. At least someone is enjoying the wind.

We arrive at our B & B in Gardiner just before 6:00 p.m. Coming through the front gate a beautiful garden complete with swings and sitting areas greets us. Someone has lovingly created this oasis for just this reason – to welcome their guests to a home away from home. Our host Nancy comes out to welcome us and give us an orientation to the house. She doesn’t ask for payment information just says “Oh, we can take care of that tomorrow”. Again, small town trust and simplicity. She tells us of the buffalo that come to spend time in town in early February and March. One made his home in their backyard for a couple of weeks last year. A shopkeeper on the main street told us it is not uncommon to see an entire herd of buffalo stampede down the main street outside the shops in spring. They are massive creatures and it is hard to imagine not feeling frightened that they would leave a tremendous amount of destruction in their wake. She laughed and said they are really quite friendly creatures but there is one ornery old bull who doesn’t know when to take his leave and they have had to escort him out of town on occasion. At Nancy’s recommendation we dine at “The Loft” just a short walk away. We are seated at a huge picture window that overlooks the foothills leading into the Gallatin Range. I enjoy homemade soup and a very fresh salad bar and Rod decides to give bison a try. It is a little chewier than he anticipated. Hope it’s not the ornery old bull.

We walk back to our room and pick up my laptop. There is an internet connection at the pharmacy/ice cream and confectionary shop. Sounds like dessert is in order with getting out a Blog entry. At 15 cents per minute with an agonizingly slow connection I don’t spend much time to peruse emails and such.

We stroll leisurely back to the B & B relaxed and replete after a long and arduous day and look forward to a soak in the old fashioned claw foot tub and bed. Opening the door, I first say – “Oh Oh, smells like someone has burnt their toast”. My eyes immediately start to tear and we realize it’s a little more serious. The whole lower floor is completely filled with smoke. Someone has left their dinner on the stove at high heat and it has exploded in the kitchen. I grab the phone and call the number that Nancy left for their apartment just around the corner of the next street and Richard says they’ll be right there. Nancy lets some of the local workers who live where there is no kitchen use hers and the result was a little less than desirable in this case. I had to laugh when I saw that the one pot that had exploded had contained eggs which were now spread out all over the kitchen. I can relate to that one having exploded eggs myself and know the resulting mess and just how far those darn things can travel. Little projectiles each one of them. It’s not too bad upstairs and we reverse the direction of the window fan to try to both cool the room and expel the smokey fumes. Finally I do get into the tub and immediately fall asleep. Then of course, it’s hard to try to drag yourself out and get ready for bed.

Tomorrow we head through the North Gate into Yellowstone Park. New territory for us both.

Aug 28/08 - Wind "Resistance"...

Thursday Aug 28/08 - Day 6

It is hard to leave Maryon in the morning – being typical Scots – we both have tears welling up. A nice ride into Okotoks, we stop at the Esso to refuel my bike. While there we meet a fellow filling his pickup. He commented on Rod’s Wing having owned the same year and model. Rod said that “it just keeps on going without giving me any problems”. The response he got was “Yes, not like a Harley”. Now, no dis-respect here to Harley riders but in his experience he had assisted a number of ‘dead’ Harley’s. In one case he stopped to help and the owner said he probably couldn’t as his Japanese wrenches would be metric and ‘the Harley’ would need imperial. With a smile he said he carried both in case he had to rescue a Harley fellow. A final comment was at least riding a Harley gives you something to do when you’re not riding… I believe he may have been referring to working on the bike…

After a quick coffee at Julian’s we head south on Hwy 2. The farther south we travel the more the wind picks up until we can no longer ride side by each as the wind shifts our bikes out of line. It used to happen to me a lot when I rode the sport bike with the full lower fairing but rarely on Paladin and I have never seen it shift Rod on the Wing. Loaded with all his gear and with Rod on it, it would tip the scales at 1200 pounds. I would be ½ that much. I’m not sure I’ll EVER get the cricks out of my neck from the attempt to keep my helmet from severing my head from my neck. My newly reinstalled flag pole seems to be holding up well but my new flag which ‘should’ be flying out behind me is stuck straight out sideways due to the immense cross wind. In an effort to change direction in the hope of lessening the wind we turned off Hwy 2 before Fort McLeod onto 810 intending to head to Glenwood for fuel.

No luck with the wind abating – those prairie grasses are lying flat and there is a huge temperature drop sucking the heat out of our bodies.

Coming over a ridge there are hundreds of wind turbines spinning at such a rate I wonder if they can come loose from their restraints. A sign proclaims a photo op for “Wind Farming”. We don’t stop. The turbines are almost mesmerizing as they appear to turn cartwheels over the grasslands.

We turn into Glenwood looking for fuel. At 106 miles on the tank I’m amazed I’m not yet on reserve as it’s likely the bike has been a little thirstier fighting with the wind. Idling up Centre Street and crossing Main, what appears to perhaps have been the only station in ‘town’ is closed and sports a “For Sale” sign. It looks like it may have been there for quite some time. We reach the end of the paved portion of Centre Street and turn the bikes around. Rod stopped to chat with a young fellow on a John Deere to inquire about where the next fuel station may be as we are both running pretty low. Their 2 dogs ran out to visit and then Mom and another brother came out. I felt a little panicky when she said it was about 35 km into Cardston. “I won’t make that distance”. Without hesitation she sent one son for the gas can and the other into the house to ‘get some shoes on. His white socks were a little worse for wear from the gravel drive. I said he may do differently when he has to do his own laundry. She laughed with mock exasperation and said “He already does his own laundry. He just don’t care. He’ll just wear them out and buy new ones”. Ah - the generation of disposables.


Not wanting to be greedy I just ask for a small amount I think will tide us through He is gazing longingly at Paladin and saying what a cool bike – I think he would have traded that John Deere in a heartbeat!

In true prairie fashion she refused to take a penny for the fuel. Remember now that gas at $1.25 per litre (about $4.70 per US gallon) that’s like giving away gold!!! Thank you Lisa for your wonderful generosity. Even at that we barely made it into Cardston and were both heavily into our reserve. At Lisa’s suggestion, we have lunch at “Our Place Café”. It sure didn’t look like much from the outside and I was having 2nd thoughts but my stomach overruled my head and I enjoyed one of the best beef dips I have ever eaten.

Mercifully, the wind died down some and the sun was peeking through. We crossed the border into Montana just after 3:00 p.m. After that the wind picked up with a vengeance with gusts over 100 kmph that brought an icy chill off the glacier. I pulled over to don my rain gear as the sky was looking ominous.

We fell quite short of our destination of Great Falls and decided to stop for the night in Browning, Montana. It is pretty much a one horse town and we stopped at a service station to ask what our options were for accommodation. Our option was one, a quaint little old fashioned motel but we were both so tired we just needed to get off the bikes and warmed up. After we unpacked the bikes Rod went down to the supermarket and picked up some nibblies that we enjoyed and called dinner. Tomorrow we head to the north gate of Yellowstone which is the northwest corner of Wyoming. We have a reservation at a B & B in Gardiner, Montana that sounds lovely. A 1903 home.

Aug 27/08 - Day 5 - Part II

Wed Aug 27 – Part 2

Rod picked me up at Starbucks and we decided to share a small lunch. We stopped at the White Spot near Southcentre and went in. There were a number of people waiting and they said it would be a 15-20 minute wait. Looking around the restaurant there were at least a dozen tables clean and vacant. I asked why the wait as there appeared to be lots of room. The answer - that as the kitchen staff was so busy they didn’t want to stress the waitresses by having people waiting at the tables. We asked could we just sit and have a coffee while we waited – “No”. Alrighty… makes perfect sense to me (not). While at lunch (elsewhere) Rod gets a call from the stainless steel shop saying my flagpole has been repaired. He has already been to the Flag Shop and purchased me not one but 2 new flags. Finishing lunch we make the 20 mile trip (each way) to pick it up. It’s not quite as pretty as it was but they have built up the shaft and hopefully it will hold. ANOTHER $54.OO – thank you very much. I have always wondered if Flag Motors in Guildford budgeted the expense for replacing the huge Canadian Flag from Expo ’86 when they decided to make it their landmark. I don’t think I was quite prepared for this either :-)

Back to Maryon’s by 3:00 as we want to change for our evening to Okotoks and we are to be there by 4:00. Ringing the doorbell – no answer. Maryon had gone to Sobey’s for a few things at 9:00 a.m. and said she would be coming right back. We weren’t quite sure what to do as my bike was in the garage – we had no house key, her son Alex had gone to Edmonton to visit his brother and grandson Shawn being 18 – well we have no idea when he might show up. We called the house just to be sure she wasn’t there but we could see the car wasn’t in the garage. Well, I just may have an overactive imagination but I am concerned that perhaps Maryon has come into some difficulty so off we go to find the Sobey’s. We cruise the parking lot looking for her car and then the supermarket aisles. We call again and leave another message. Rod thinks she may have gone to the Coop instead so we find out where that is and zing down there. Cruise the parking lot – the supermarket aisles and call her again at home. This time we also leave a message for Shawn to call should he come home. We see a couple of Calgary police officers and decide to ask them what we should do in the event she doesn’t show up. I am feeling very concerned by now – she is 82 – she did serve pizza for breakfast… maybe I am oversensitive having recently lost my own Mom of a similar age. It is now 4:30 and we should already be in Okotoks – a 30 minute drive away. We are standing in the middle of the parking lot looking helplessly at each other wondering what to do when Rod’s cell phone rings. It’s Maryon and all is well. A huge wave of relief washes over me. We jump on the bike and head back to change and go.

It’s an enjoyable evening with friends Laura & Julian but in our rush to get there we forgot a music disk I had made for them and decide to drop it off when we leave Calgary on our southbound journey in the morning.

Aug 27/08 - Babies and more...

Wed Aug 27/08 – Day 5

Have had a couple of days of wonderful reconnecting with friends and family in Calgary. Rod’s 2nd cousin Alex took us under his wing on Monday and having time off work squired us around to a couple of motorcycle shops and of course Rod’s home away from home – the Home Depot. Cousin Maryon has some challenges with lighting and Rod replaced all 3 ballasts in the kitchen ceiling fixture, took apart the kitchen tap and tightened all the hinges in kitchen and bathroom cabinets. In more than 20+ years I cannot recall any vacation where he has not dug out some tools and fixed something – even in hotel/motel rooms. He loves it – it’s his nature to always want to help and leave things better than he found them.

Tuesday dawned rainy and c-c-c-cold!!!! I’m not keen to don rain gear and set out on the days activities which include lunch and dinner from the SW of Calgary to the NW. Maryon graciously offered us her car for the day and gratefully we accept (must be getting ’wussy’ in my older years). Maryon is a very gifted artist and has painted on all types of mediums from canvas to wood but her forte lies in painting china and she has stunning plates and vases of every kind. At 82, she is very active and loves to make things for all the family from kids, to grandkids to great grandkids to remember her by. Rod’s mother was her aunt and she has regaled us with many family tales and memories. She generously gifts us with a beautiful filigree plate she has painted with pansies which Rod loves as they always remind him of ‘happy faces’.

We are meeting the daughter of an old friend/client who now lives in Calgary and are the proud parents of 6 month old twins Jacob and Nancy. When we meet at Milestone’s at Southcentre there is another young lady with Naomi and Rod holds out his hand to introduce himself to her. With a twinkle in her eye she says her name is Desiree. What a surprise!!! We have not seen her since she was 8 and moving to New Zealand with her folks. She is now a delightful young lady of 19 and has been helping her sister out with the twins since they were a week old. We look forward to Naomi’s monthly updates and pics. In a week they are taking the twins for their first trip to Disneyland to start their goal of having them there for each month of the year by the time they are 15.

The afternoon takes us to the NW of Calgary to meet up with my dear friend of some 35+ years originally from Czechoslovakia now the Czech republic. We are remembering that it was 40 years last Thursday (Aug 21) since the Russian tanks rolled into Prague. By all accounts, prior to WWII it was one of the richest countries in Europe and having been invaded by Germany, was sold out to the Russians at the end of the war. Since the ‘Velvet Revolution’ of November 1989 and the fall of the Berlin wall in the summer of 1990 it has reclaimed its independence and is rich with opportunity. Eliska whisks us down for a quick visit with her son who is now married with a lovely daughter of his own. We are enchanted to meet Kail, now 10 months old and proud Mom, Heather.

We enjoy a wonderful dinner at Eliska’s, complete with one of my personal Czech favourites – palačinky. These are very light crepes that you add warmed fruit (in this case fresh blueberries and strawberries) to one edge, roll up and top with fresh whipped cream. Yumm! After dessert and coffee Eliska takes us and the leftovers down to her friend Bill who lives nearby in an interesting house that he is busy remodelling. We get the contractor/realtor tour and hear what the ‘next’ plans are to be. Bill is a giant of a man and when he hugs me goodbye as we take our leave, picks me up off my feet like I was a toothpick (which I assure you I am not).

Today has dawned bright and sunny albeit quite chilly. Rod has dropped me at Chapter’s to use their wireless internet at which point I have discovered that if you have a registered Starbuck’s card ( and what self-respecting Vancouverite does NOT???) it gives you 2 hours of free internet access per day. Thank you – much appreciated. Rod is off to find a stainless steel fabricating shop that he hopes will be able to mend my flagpole so we can use it when we leave for the states which will be tomorrow morning. Then we’ll need to find the flag shop here in Calgary to buy a new flag as mine, having been run over is in pretty sad shape.

We head to Okotoks this afternoon to have dinner with former Vancouver friends Julian & Laura. Looking forward to catching up on their news.

Aug 24/08 - Murphy's Law(s) ...

Sunday, Aug 24/2008 - Day 2

Awake and chatty at our usual get up time of 5:00. Rod showers while I catch up on writing.

Rod had promised young Jack a motorcycle ride. He makes it quite evident we are not to forget. Rod asks which bike he wants to ride and he chooses “Paladin”. Paladin is a name that was given to my motorcycle by its former owner in Tyler, Texas. Named from the old T.V. series “Have Gun Will Travel” it means somebody known for championing a cause. (Seems pretty appropriate for this bike with the great heart). Jack is pretty excited about this idea til Dad puts him up on the bike. Now… he’s not so sure he’s quite ready for this little adventure and looks a little panicky. Mom is out there with the camera but I’m sure feeling a little trepidation of trusting her precious little man to such a precarious situation. Rod promises he’ll go slowly and off they start. I’m thinking they’ll just have a little ride around the property but off they head down the road and over the tracks and soon I can’t hear the sound of the engine. Now even I’m feeling a little nervous. After all he is just 3½ and only wearing a bicycle helmet. Darren is trying to talk to me and I’m trying to listen but listening harder for the sound of the bike. ‘Please Rod, don’t bring him back broken’ I silently pray. Then thankfully I hear the steady sound of the engine and my heart re-starts.

Enjoying the pleasure of their company and not knowing when we’ll be seeing them again we reluctantly leave just before 11:00 – much later than we had planned. We still have a pretty good days ride to get to Calgary tonight and the traffic on the Trans Canada is extremely busy. The last of summer vacationers and RV’ers – gotta love ‘em. Whoever Murphy was made some pretty dumb laws – Murphy’s law #1 (and pet peeve) is that the drivers who c-r-a-w-l along on the crooked part of the road, put their foot in it and full throttle where there is a passing lane allowing perhaps one or two vehicles to pass them and then slow up again immediately when the road narrows to a single lane. And then there’s the transport trucks that think they’re going to pass and get out in the passing lane and lose power on the hill and no one gets past. Rod’s pet peeve is people pulling trailers or boats using mirrors that they can’t possibly see behind them with. Just before Golden, a truck pulling a big ski boat decided to pull out to pass while I was already passing him! Even had be bothered to check his mirror, which I’m relatively sure he did not, he wouldn’t have seen anything beyond his boat. I’m thankful that I ride under the assumption that I am invisible and try to anticipate that people will do the dumb ass things they do. There oughta be a law… oh that’s right there is and it belongs to Murphy. I rest my case.

We do however have a casualty to mark the day. The beautiful flag pole, of which I was inordinately proud, broke just east of Albert Canyon. It went unnoticed by me but as Rod was following he saw it go sailing past and went back to rescue it. I pulled out to pass some vehicles and realized Rod was not with me. ???? I pulled over to wait just before the first snow shed on the way through the Roger’s Pass. Why is it that when you are waiting for someone and don’t what’s happened that the time seems interminable? Must be another of Murphy’s dumb laws. Finally I turn the bike around and start back west trying to remember exactly where I saw him last. Shortly I see him riding east and have to ride several more kilometres before finding another spot to turn around in safely. The flag pole had broken clean at the weld which had appeared invisible and there were tire tracks on my brand new flag.

We fuel in Glacier at 1:30 and stop to share a chicken burger in Golden at the “Lost in the 50’s” diner. It was, as our friend Vicki would say – forgettable. We lose an hour to the Mountain Time zone.

Having been ‘out of the saddle’ for a couple of years I have very sore “cheeks” and my right hand is sore as my throttle lock ‘cruise control’ is not holding.

We decide to brave the potential wrath of the park rangers as we did not buy a park pass and pull into Banff for fuel. I am on reserve and don’t think I will make another 20 km into Canmore.

We are staying with Rod’s cousins in Calgary and looking forward to a good visit and catching up on family news.

I write this from the Chapters/Starbuck's in Calgary. Rod is at his cousin's putting new ballasts on her kitchen lights so I don't have his camera here to give you the pics. Will update with them later.

August 23/08 - Paladin Rides Again

Saturday Aug 23/08 - Day 1

We had ‘hoped’ to get away from Delta by 8:00 a.m. but as the saying goes about ‘the best laid plans’… I finished up about 2:00 a.m. Fri night and left Rod working on his ‘as builts’ that needed to be done before could get away. I vaguely recall that he crawled in about 3:00 and we were up shortly after 6:00. Rod had yet to get the payroll done so we could turn it in on our way through Langley.

Tobi, our little American Eskimo dog was looking pretty depressed. His tail that is normally curled up tightly over his back was all unwound and looking forlorn. “Hmmm” he’s thinking – “the bikes are out – ‘Mom & Dad’ keep packing out their stuff and not mine – there’s a strange guy here – this might not be good… “ I’m sure he and our friend Henry will find their own rhythm once we’re gone and it will just be a matter of time before Tobi works his magic and worms his way into Henry’s heart.

Got away just after 11:00 and rolled out of the cul-de-sac when I hear clackety-clack and see something fall onto the ground ALREADY! Pulling over I walk back to find my Serengeti sunglasses which have popped OUT of their hard shell case and – yep you know it – are face DOWN on the asphalt. OOPS!

I had to make a stop at our local bank and discovered I should have the paperwork with me re our U.S. cell phone coverage so back home we go. Yip, yip, yip… Tobi is overjoyed! They’re home – they’re home already!!! Well, that’s short-lived – we’re back on the road at 11:17 headed to WHERE??? Well – Rod has to stop at his office to drop off the “As Builts” and the payroll so the guys can get paid while we’re gone. Can’t think that was more important than our getting away in a timely fashion. J

We cruised by your shop Roland at 11:40 and gave a few toots on the horn. Paladin’s new flag is looking great and standing out proud. A not so short stop at Civil’s office and away by 12:17 p.m.

Rod had installed a new remote control for my iPod on Paladin’s handlebars which makes for “on the fly” music changes. My iPod is fully charged and with close to 10,000 songs means I won’t have to listen to the same song twice on the whole trip (unless I want to) :-)

I coasted into Chilliwack on reserve fuel at 1:00 p.m. as Tammy Wynette was demanding that women “Stand By Your Man” (must have been before women’s lib) – quite a dichotomy to Shania Twain demanding of her mate “Whose Bed Have Your Boots Been Under?” First we fuelled the ‘horses’ then it was our turn to re-fuel at Earl’s. For me, the summer berry chicken salad with fresh fat blackberries, blueberries and strawberries. SURPRISE when it arrived with the addition of my personal favourite – raspberries. Yumm! It just doesn’t get any better than this. Pulling out of Earl’s we see a strange sight – a young man dressed up as a … princess??? Full make up including a tiara and sporting a parasol. A number of buddies accompany him so I call out “is this your stag?” Grinning, he nodded and walked over to the bikes. His buddy offered me a felt sharpie and pulled up his shirt so I could ‘sign him’. We pulled away wishing him many years of wedded bliss. The super sweet Chilliwack ‘Peaches & Cream” corn is standing tall in the fields with numerous roadside offering it for sale. Crossing the summit of the Coquihalla and witnessing the devastation of the pine trees from the pine beetle makes my heart ache. I so love that wonderful smell of the pines in the mountains and wonder if any will remain. A wasteland of brown, dead trees from the little insect that gets between the inside of the bark and the tree in the sap line, unseen until a year later when the needles start to go brown and die. Our friend tells us the pine beetle is made possible by the forestry practices and the warming trend. There would need to be 2 solid weeks of -40 temperatures to eradicate this pest and we haven’t seen these temperatures even much farther north for a number of years.

We fuel in Merritt at 4:00 and chat with a number of other motorcyclists. There were signs on the pumps asking for patrons’ patience as they had very slow fuel flow. ‘No kidding” Rod says as it barely dribbles out “I could pee in a cup faster. Imagine trying to fill my truck?” 140 litres as opposed to 25 for both bikes.

A quick stop in Kamloops to call our friends Darren & Amanda to check directions to their place in Sorrento. It will be our first visit since they relocated from Vancouver 2 years ago and I am excited to see them and little Jack who was still just a baby when they left.

Just before Chase my nostrils are filled with the acrid smell of smoke and my eyes start to sting. To our left on the north side of the Thompson River is a little island in the river and it is on fire. A large black helicopter hovered above assessing the situation and a number of vehicles have pulled over to have a look.

We arrive at our host’s lovely post & beam home overlooking the enormous Shuswap Lake which is about 65 km in length. You can smell the fresh water and it conjures up images of summer sunshine, swimming, boating, beach fires and fun. A new addition and playmate to Jack is Cooper, a playful young lab/border collie mix. Jack, now 3½ is a little shy at first but eventually shows us his ‘fleet’ of vehicles from trikes to his first two wheeler with training wheels and wagons that he hooks up to and tows rocks around the property. He even has an inside trike that he roars around the house in. As do most kids of that age he has his own language that is quite indecipherable to most adults but it doesn’t seem to matter as long as you smile and make appropriate sounds of attempted understanding. Darren & Jack head out to pick up Amanda from work in Salmon Arm hospital where she has already put in a 12 hour shift as a nurse delivering babies which today included one of her neighbours. We share a great dinner, bottle of wine and lots of laughs. At 10:30 we’re about done in from our short night before and can longer try to politely cover our yawns – it’s time to turn in for the night. Here, with no ambient light from the city it is VERY dark but the stars are wonderful and Darren told us they sat on the grass and enjoyed the free show of a meteor shower last week. The light inside me that had grown very dim these past dark months has found an ember to rekindle on – Rod says it’s the first real smile in quite a long while – one that actually reaches my eyes. It’s a start.

Aug 21/08 - One More Sleep ...

Feverishly trying to tie up loose ends with work and make sure all is looked after while we are away. Yes, Rod - I even have a list! The heavy skies are lifting and I am hoping to at least start out with good weather.

Last minute items - a new flag pole for 'Paladin'and some final details for Rod's bike.

The sun is finally poking through the clouds and we'll be on the road Saturday morning. What could be better?